Saturday, January 28, 2012

More on South Georgia

South Georgia Island Friday January 20, 2012

Stromness 9:00AM 40*

Since I have been indulging in all the lovely food and drink on the ship, today I decided to take the 2K walk up from Stromness, an old deserted whaling station to Shackelton’s Waterfall.  Some brave explorers took the 5K walk from Fortuna Bay over the mountain to the Waterfall and then down to Stromness.  On my way inland, we were greeted by our friendly fur seals…. So many cute pups along the way.  A glacier had cut a wide riverbed down to the beach and the seals and a few King penguins lived here peacefully.  Just a few a reindeer were encountered as we got further back in the valley.  They were skiddish so didn’t stay around long as we approached.  The walk led us through marshy boggy grass and it was easy to sink in.  As I was crossing on small creek, I went one knee in the much, but luckily my waterproof pants saved me and I continued my trek.  

Beth at Shackleton's Waterfall
As we got off the zodiac, we were able to make out the red dots on the ridge who were the 30 some passengers who had taken Shackelton’s Walk. As we got  closer to the waterfall, the descending red dots got closer to us.  We were able to be the first to congratulate these explorers as they completed their morning adventure.  I stopped and admired the falls, rested for a few minutes and turned around to return to the shore.  This time, I took the rocky river bed, which was actually a little easier than the marsh bank.  All in all, my 4K walk was a nice way to spend the morning even though it was one minute quite breezy in need to my gaiter and hood, the next minute so still with the sun beating down and needung to unzip my parka.   Such is the life of an explorer!

The ship left Stromness as we enjoyed lunch and the lovely show of fur seals frolicking in the water beside our ship.  

Grytviken (grit – vick- n)  1:50pm 39* winds 49 km/h


Betty & Beth at Whaler's Cemetery
Well, all I can say is this was another amazing afternoon.  The entire ship disembarked in the bay at Grytviken.  We took the zodiacs over to the Whaler’s Cemetery and toasted Sir Ernest Shackleton.  He is buried here along with many others. Shackleton actually died in Uruguay and story has it his wife insisted he be moved to Grytviken.  Just a few weeks ago, the remains of Frank Wild, Shackleton’s number one man,  were taken from somewhere in South Africa and moved to Whaler’s Cemetery to be with his boss.  He is now resting on Shackleton’s left.  Each of us were given a glass of champagne and Peter, our historian, shared some history, quoted two poems and we toasted Sir Shackleton.  Amazingly as all this was going on, ice pellets fell all around us.  This continued for most of our time in this old whaling station.  Now all the old station tanks are a rusty brown-orange.  Quite a sight to see in the area of fur seals, elephant seals and King penguins.  There is a church, museum, post office and gift shop.  Who knew that this far south we’d be able to spend some money for souvenirs. 

2 comments:

  1. I can just hear Peter's enthusiastic rendition of any history or poems that he might have shared at the toast ... he's got such a passion for Polar History. Glad to read that you were able to land at Stromness; that can only mean that they were successful in cleaning up the asbestos and what not that was littering the area in 2007.

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  2. Peter has a great love for South Georgia, Shackelton and Antarctica. He was a huge historic take asset to the cruise. His wife was also on our cruise. Such a nice couple. The whaling station was quartered off to visitors, but we were able to land here.

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